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All about Painting
All about Painting
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There's no need to be a slap-happy Decorator when a little knowledge can help you produce
a perfect finish to your work. Remember that good painting is a matter of 75 per cent preparation and
25 per cent finishing, and you'll be proud of your professional touch!! If you want your paintwork to
be a work of art, remember the importance of a first class "canvas". The desire to make that
first, exciting daub of paint across the bare woodwork has spoilt many a handy-mans efforts. Patient preparation is
nine-tenths of the professional's secret, so curb the artistry and concentrate first on producing the perfect
surface to receive paint.

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Follow this six-point plan for woodwork and you will have a surface that will keep your paint looking better, longer :
(1) The surface should be dry :
(2) clean :
(3) smooth :
(4) firm :
(5). not too absorbent :
(6) with a slight "key," or surface texture, to which paint can grip.

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(1) Damp woodwork is more of a problem on outside decoration but any that is wet indoors
should be allowed to dry thoroughly before paint is applied, otherwise peeling and cracking will result.

(2) Existing paintwork should be washed down well with warm water and a little washing soda. Then rinse with clean water.

(3) While the paint is still damp from this treatment outlined above, rub down irregularities with a pumice block.
Unpainted wood should be finished off before with a piece of No 1-2 glass-paper wrapped around a wood-
block, used across the grain and finally with the grain. Cracks and depressions should be filled with
a quick drying wood filler obtainable under proprietary after priming.

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(4) A coat of paint is no stronger than the surface it adheres to. Weathered paint on the outside of
the house almost always needs to be stripped completely and replaced. It happens sometimes that interior woodwork has
become chipped and pitted, or has peeled, because the work was not done properly in the first place.
If so it should be removed. Indoors use a chemical stripper to soften paint, which can be
removed from flat surfaces with a metal scraper, and from moldings with a shave hook. "Wet-or-dry" emery
cloth, that can be washed to clear clogged paint, is useful for rubbing down stubborn patches. A turps
rinse is usually recommended by the makers of a chemical stripper to neutralize it's effect. If you prefer it
you can use a electric hot air paint gun, they do a most effective job. Afterwards,
smooth with glass-paper.

(5) The suction that bare wood normally exerts on paint is checked by a coat of primer. If
aluminium wood primer (not aluminium paint) is used it also serves to seal resin knots. Otherwise these should
be treated first with knotting. Primer should be applied liberally and allowed to penetrate for a few moments
before removing excess with firm strokes of a fairly dry brush along the grain. A second coat is
advisable on the end grain of wood.

(6) Glass-papering provide a "key" on new wood. Matt paint only needs treatment with sugar soap
to provide the necessary grip. Gloss paints should be rubbed all over with a pumice block after
the sugar-soap has been rinsed away. That is it for for now call back again.

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