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Papering a Ceiling with Curved Friezes
Ceiling Papering Simlified

Pasting, Cutting to Shape and Order of Hanging
Ray Lewhite

Papering curved surfaces needs no special skill except at the corners. The following method should enable any difficulty to be overcome. All surfaces should be prepared and sized. The equipment for hanging ceiling paper on flat surfaces should be available. Begin by marking a line on the long wall ceiling where the curve at the top ends. Cut a length of paper for the frieze on this wall. Put this in the required position un-pasted. Mark and cut the curved shapes at the ends. Allow the paper to go half way round the corners at each end (Fig.1A). The top of the frieze should reach the ceiling marks already made. The use of cellulose paste is recommended. This does not mark the surface of the paper if left to dry after accidental touching. Any overlap on corners can be allowed to contact the under-paper before final trimming, if required. Half inch incisions at the curves will help the paper to take shape without wrinkles. Cut the next strip to allow for the length of room and depth of frieze at each end. The width on the ceiling portion is less than that on the two ends used for the friezes. The cut-out needed is started where the top of the straight frieze begins to curve. At this point a convex shape bending into the paper is marked and cut. From here a strip is cut off equal to the width of the ceiling. When the far end frieze curve the convex shape is repeated. This completes the removal of the strip of paper as shown in Fig. 1B. The paper regains its full width for the straight portion of the frieze. Repeat the process at the other side of the room. At this time there are two frieze papers hung. When the two ceiling papers have been cut to shape they are ready to hang. These will be finished so that their inner (ie. nearest to centre) edges are parallel. This permits subsequent hanging to be carried out in a straightforward way. From now on the succeeding lengths of paper require no abnormal cutting. They are swept over from the bottom of the frieze at one end to the bottom of the frieze at the other end. It will be seen that there are two walls with vertical joins of the paper lengths. The wallpaper below should be hung in prolongation of the vertical frieze lengths.

The Chimney-breast
Ceiling Papering Simlified

Where there is a chimney-breast the frieze is cut in three lengths. The two for the recess back wall friezes are cut as shown in Fig.1A. For the front of the chimney breast a special piece must be cut. The shape is rectangular at the base, with two winged shapes at the top. These shapes will require careful marking before being cut. The length should exceed that of the chimney-breast by a few inches. This frieze joins the paper just inside the recess (Fig.1D) The ceiling piece is cut in two lengths. The first is long enough to go up the wall frieze, along the recess ceiling, and down the chimney frieze. The other is long enough to cover the same area on the other side of the chimney breast. These two pieces should be slightly wider than the recess. The inner edge is to finish level with the top of the curve in front of the chimney-breast. Both these pieces are cut as shown in Fig.1B. In addition a shaped cut is needed on the inner edge of the paper down the chimney frieze. This cut stops the paper from going round the chimney-breast corner (Fig.1D).
The order of hanging the pieces is as follows:-
(a) Frieze of back wall of recess No.1.
(b) Ceiling paper of recess No.1.
(c) Frieze of back wall of recess No.2.
(d) Ceiling paper of recess No.2.
(e) Chimney breast front frieze. Overlap at each end is pasted around the chimney-breast corner.
Now the edge of the recess ceiling papers and the chimney-breast frieze paper will be in a straight line. The remaining ceiling pieces can be hung to complete the papering.
The usually recommended and professionally adopted method of papering a ceiling is to paste the paper in accurately cut lengths and fold them into a "concertina" form prior to applying to the ceiling. Any novice who has tried this procedure will probably ruin many lengths of paper, especially if it is cheap, thin paper, easily torn and damaged when wet. The writer finding himself in such a position, evolved the following procedure which has proved entirely satisfactory, so much so that, using this method, the first length of paper he applied to a ceiling went on in a few minutes without any trouble at all.

Use of Paper Support
Ceiling Papering Simlified

The method requires the use of a paper support shown in Fig.1. This can readily be made by nailing or screwing a 2ft. length of brush handle or similar smooth round wood to an old cloths prop or rigid piece of timber about 2ft. less in length than the height of the room. The paper support is then screwed at an angle (not critical) to an old table leg or packing case capable of supporting the weight of the operator (Fig.3) A pair of step ladders could be used in place of the table, but the range of the operator would then be more limited.

Paper Well Pasted and Folded
Ceiling Papering Simlified

The paper is well pasted and folded as shown in Fig.2. After folding (these fold are similar to those used in papering a wall) The paper is slipped over the arm of the paperer, carried to the paper holder and slipped over the top round piece, this takes the place of the arm of the operator in Fig.2. To do this the paperer mount the table, packing case or steps. With the paper hanging in this position it is easily applied to the ceiling. The position of the table is arranged in the room so that the first strip can be applied; the operator standing on the table pulls out the fold nearer to him. He then applies the end of the paper to the ceiling, illustrated by the arrow in Fig.3 and progressively applies pressure(arrows 2,3,4, etc.) and till most of the paper between the wall and the paper support is in place. He then descends from the table and gently pushes it in the direction of the arrow AB, at the same time letting out the other fold. Reascending the table more paper can now be pushed against the ceiling and these operations are continued until the paper support is near the other end of the paper. As the last three or four feet of paper are applied the paper is freed from the support which can be moved into position ready for the next strip.

Overlapping Joints
Ceiling Papering Simlified

If overlapping joints are used it is advisable to start papering at the side of the room nearest the brightest source of light (the windows) to avoid the light causing a shadow and producing an unsightly effect. This factor is unimportant if butt joining is used; this type of joint between strips always provides a more pleasing appearance. When applying the first strip a lightly pencilled guide line is useful in order to get the first strip straight.
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